Yes the 315's and bigger will rub slightly at full lock on the sway bar..nothing to worry about at all.
As far as longer shocks go, it is an optional thing depending on how you use your truck. Like I said before if you do off road then I suggest the change. A couple inches in shock length is a far amount when you are talking suspension travel and you do not want the to over extend the shocks. The other option is to add shock extenders.
"The purpose of the bump stops is to return the ride to factory. When at OEM settings, the OEM bumpstops barely rest on the A-arms of the front suspension. They bump stops act as part of the suspension, soaking up the initial energy when the front suspension compresses, i.e. from bumps and braking. Ideally, the bump stops should not be greater than 1/4" from the A-arm."
Oh and don't forget to get an alignment after you adjust the t bars....
Oversized tires
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Khamul
- CHC Pilot
- Posts: 354
- Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:52 pm
- Location: Calgary
- Contact:
Re: Oversized tires
Good info there....
I'll give my two cents..... when i had my torsion bars cranked...I noticed the suspension was quite a bit stiffer.. To the point where it was quite noticable and I didn't care for it. I then went with the keys with a bit of a turn until i got the desired setting i wanted.... Love it now!
So take that as it may... Mine is a U.S. model but I doubt that makes any difference.
Also I have not noticed any rubbing at all with my 35's and they were put through the test... maybe give your keys a bit of a turn to get a little more height... make sure front isn't higher than the rear though... again I suggest the Samco shackles for the rear...
Also strongly suggest the extenders for the shocks or new ones..... don't want to overextend them!
I'll give my two cents..... when i had my torsion bars cranked...I noticed the suspension was quite a bit stiffer.. To the point where it was quite noticable and I didn't care for it. I then went with the keys with a bit of a turn until i got the desired setting i wanted.... Love it now!
So take that as it may... Mine is a U.S. model but I doubt that makes any difference.
Also I have not noticed any rubbing at all with my 35's and they were put through the test... maybe give your keys a bit of a turn to get a little more height... make sure front isn't higher than the rear though... again I suggest the Samco shackles for the rear...
Also strongly suggest the extenders for the shocks or new ones..... don't want to overextend them!
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whitehumh2
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
- Posts: 4529
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 11:47 pm
- Location: Lachine, Quebec
Re: Oversized tires
[quote author=Sugarphreak link=topic=962.msg11799#msg11799 date=1259358937]
I can verify that, the new tires size it doesn't really have any affect on my H3T other than I noticed my Speedometer was off by about 5%.
It does however rub when you crank the wheel all the way over.
As far as the torsion keys go, yeah after I installed them it was pretty obvious that the amount of adjustment needed could have been achieved on the stock keys just as easily... I kind of wish I had caught up on those other sites before I purchased them now.
I keep hearing people talking about changing to new shocks, for adventure packages that already feature the Blisten shocks is that still true? I had a close look at shock operation and the mechanics of how the key changed the arrangement, it doesn't really seem like longer shocks are really nessisary for such a small height adjustment. Same goes for the bump stops, I didn't experence any nose diving when braking hard or extra roll on corners at all.
[/quote]
I have done several key lifts and I will tell you that despite the fact that there does not appear to be any difference and while it is true that you can just crank up the factory ones, you will be at the limit. What does that mean it means that if you add a bumper and a winch then you are back to less than square one. With the torsion keys you can fine tune your ride height to your load. The reason stock keys ride hard when crank is not because of the torsion spring but because all the play has been eliminated, that is why you feel them over bumps. For the shocks, unbolt the front upper mounts and install a 1/2" spacer (use steel pipe) under the lower washer and bushing and then reassemble, this will make sure they don't over extend and saves you buying a new set of shocks...unless of course they need to be changed!
Hope this helps!
Kev
I can verify that, the new tires size it doesn't really have any affect on my H3T other than I noticed my Speedometer was off by about 5%.
It does however rub when you crank the wheel all the way over.
As far as the torsion keys go, yeah after I installed them it was pretty obvious that the amount of adjustment needed could have been achieved on the stock keys just as easily... I kind of wish I had caught up on those other sites before I purchased them now.
I keep hearing people talking about changing to new shocks, for adventure packages that already feature the Blisten shocks is that still true? I had a close look at shock operation and the mechanics of how the key changed the arrangement, it doesn't really seem like longer shocks are really nessisary for such a small height adjustment. Same goes for the bump stops, I didn't experence any nose diving when braking hard or extra roll on corners at all.
[/quote]
I have done several key lifts and I will tell you that despite the fact that there does not appear to be any difference and while it is true that you can just crank up the factory ones, you will be at the limit. What does that mean it means that if you add a bumper and a winch then you are back to less than square one. With the torsion keys you can fine tune your ride height to your load. The reason stock keys ride hard when crank is not because of the torsion spring but because all the play has been eliminated, that is why you feel them over bumps. For the shocks, unbolt the front upper mounts and install a 1/2" spacer (use steel pipe) under the lower washer and bushing and then reassemble, this will make sure they don't over extend and saves you buying a new set of shocks...unless of course they need to be changed!
Hope this helps!
Kev
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Sugarphreak
- CHC Pilot
- Posts: 329
- Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:05 pm
Re: Oversized tires
I took some measurements today to see how things stack up against the norm;
From wheel center to top of fender (Front) = 22" (stock was 20")
From wheel center to top of fender (Rear) = 25"
Bump stops = just confirmed they are still touching even with leveling kit installed!
I did initially crank the torsion keys to achieve 23" (or 3" over stock)... but it was way to unstable so I had to back it off to 2".
Mechanically there shouldn't be any difference between using stock keys and aftermarket ones. The key only serves to load the torsion bar, if there is 1" or 6" of the bolt remaining that should have little to no impact on how the torsion itself bar behaves. Because it would take an equal amount of tension to get the desired ride height on either key the bolt itself should also be under the same amount of tension in both cases; theoretically speaking if the bolt were to have any kind of play it would end up shearing off at the top from being impacted as the suspension moves.
Kev has a point about adding additional loading though, also in the long run I would expect the torsion bars would experience a certain amount of fatigue which would require adjustment.
Once I load my own bumper on I can probably give you guys a measurement of how much more bolt you would have to expose at the top of the stock torsion key to achieve a 2" lift and support more weight, I can also look to see if the stock keys could be cranked that far down. My feeling is there is actually sufficient space on the H3 to crank them that far, although it would likely be close. I could provide a more definitive answer on that for arguments sake.
With the shock I don't really see how you could over-extend it? When you jack the vehicle up the shock extends all the way down, once you remove the lower bolt the entire suspension assembly only drops maybe another inch or so. Whether the torsion bars are set to stock or the tension is increased for ride height, once the wheel reaches it's maximum downward position it shouldn't apply much more pressure to the shock than stock; if anything with a shock extender, when you reach the maximum downward position you would be putting additional pressure on the assembly (from the shock) because it wants to extend beyond that. I guess it is possible to overstress the entire assembly which in turn could over extend the shock; I am still kind of split on whether or not to add in the extender.
lol, sorry for the long post... I work at an engineering firm so I tend to get intrigued pretty easily with this stuff <img src='http://www.canadianhummerclub.com/forum ... >/grin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';D' />
From wheel center to top of fender (Front) = 22" (stock was 20")
From wheel center to top of fender (Rear) = 25"
Bump stops = just confirmed they are still touching even with leveling kit installed!
I did initially crank the torsion keys to achieve 23" (or 3" over stock)... but it was way to unstable so I had to back it off to 2".
Mechanically there shouldn't be any difference between using stock keys and aftermarket ones. The key only serves to load the torsion bar, if there is 1" or 6" of the bolt remaining that should have little to no impact on how the torsion itself bar behaves. Because it would take an equal amount of tension to get the desired ride height on either key the bolt itself should also be under the same amount of tension in both cases; theoretically speaking if the bolt were to have any kind of play it would end up shearing off at the top from being impacted as the suspension moves.
Kev has a point about adding additional loading though, also in the long run I would expect the torsion bars would experience a certain amount of fatigue which would require adjustment.
Once I load my own bumper on I can probably give you guys a measurement of how much more bolt you would have to expose at the top of the stock torsion key to achieve a 2" lift and support more weight, I can also look to see if the stock keys could be cranked that far down. My feeling is there is actually sufficient space on the H3 to crank them that far, although it would likely be close. I could provide a more definitive answer on that for arguments sake.
With the shock I don't really see how you could over-extend it? When you jack the vehicle up the shock extends all the way down, once you remove the lower bolt the entire suspension assembly only drops maybe another inch or so. Whether the torsion bars are set to stock or the tension is increased for ride height, once the wheel reaches it's maximum downward position it shouldn't apply much more pressure to the shock than stock; if anything with a shock extender, when you reach the maximum downward position you would be putting additional pressure on the assembly (from the shock) because it wants to extend beyond that. I guess it is possible to overstress the entire assembly which in turn could over extend the shock; I am still kind of split on whether or not to add in the extender.
lol, sorry for the long post... I work at an engineering firm so I tend to get intrigued pretty easily with this stuff <img src='http://www.canadianhummerclub.com/forum ... >/grin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';D' />
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spies
- Club Member
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 5:14 pm
- Location: Sylvan Lake , ALBERTA
Re: Oversized tires
I am not sure what is meant by over extending the shocks? The shocks are what limits the suspension travel in decompresion. The concern when extending the shocks should be , what is the maximum angle at which the C.V. joint will be able to operate at. Alowing the susp. to travel too far will destroy C.V. joints. Also the ride will not be affected by weather stock or aftermarket keys are used but by how much you crank either of them.
Harold
Harold