Hub seal replacement

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Monk
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Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

Just outta curiosity, how long would it roughly take to replace the little ctis seal, lol for an average folk,

I read on that flash site how to sorta change, but was wondering what's the time frame.?

My rear tires wanna go flat more lately :(
Last edited by Monk on Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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drm
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by drm »

Im not sure how long it takes, but there is a good article if you google ctis repair. it under www.hummerknowledgebase.com. The article will help you trouble shoot the exact problem.
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whitehumh2
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by whitehumh2 »

If you are fortunate enought to only have to replace the seal...it can easily be done in less than 1 hour at a relaxed pace. However if the pipe that the seal rides on in the tip of the spindle is pitted or grooved and must be replaced...now is where the fun begins! You could be very blessed and it might just simply pull out or most likely you would have to get very creative in order to remove it completely as it will probably break into smaller pièces.
 
So Have fun! And make sure you have both parts that could be needed before you start!
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Monk
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

Thank you, it's really nice talking to people with hands on experience!! Makes a big difference.....

Also little off topic,.... Sooooo ( I was board) took vent line off filter box and blew hard to make pressure. So then I hear a hiss, close to middle, sorta in front of tranny area... Like once I stop blowing air comes out of line where I blew,....just that I defiantly hear a hiss mid truck,should I dig for it? Or don't matter? I'd prob have to move tunnel again,,,, that area
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Roy
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Roy »

When doing seal, you require c-clip pliers or equivalent, and a gasket scraper(1/4" wide). I have not done any seal tubes yet, just replaced seals. So far I have been lucky. 
The hiss could be coming from trany tube as this is the only outlet for pressure you created. If needed, disconnect air inlets to tires to keep air in the tires till you have time to correct.
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GreenMeanie
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by GreenMeanie »

You have to remove the steering arm cover and the radius rod from the cover.Once on the bench you can drive out the old seal with the end of a screwdriver. Bang in the new seal straight and reassemble. Soak the seal in Lucas for a day before installing. Make sure the tube is not scored to shit. If it is replace that too.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Monk
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

Well I did them today, well passenger side yesterday ,

One spindle ext. was little darker but smooth as a baby's bum,

and my passenger spindle had decent grooves, nail will Easily go in.

That's another day job!!

Took a bit of time,as I ran into few snags , one air line swivel didn't turn, sooooo

I figured who cares I'll take of the tie rod end, well...... Ugg I didn't have a 1 1/16 socket.

So did job with tie rods in, (don't recomend this way) have pics will show later today.

Plus gave me a chance to repaint underneath , was a nice relaxing job, even though a pain,

Defiantly I get a better understanding of the beast.
Last edited by Monk on Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Monk
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

One side was done in vein Apparently.....hehe

I'm loosing a little air, so I put a vent hose on top of the driver side hub and other end to a water bottle, and

Behold it bubbled...

I Ordered a couple more seals from crazy Canuck, (great service !)

I'll have the part soon and lol , will attempt to do, but this time remove tie rod from steering arm .
Last edited by Monk on Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Monk
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

Well update, my ctis seals showed from Crazy Canuck, and I ran outside and jacked up the truck.

Popped off my backing plate "removed tie rod to steering arm" and noticed the first seal I put in bent back ,

I could see the rubber was all chewed at one side of seal.

This time since I could hold my steering plate was able to clean nicer, sanded top to bottom ,lol

Brake spray cleaned and wiped clean. Reinstalled seal "as per normal instruction" and buttoned all back up.

Couple things were snags, my ctis to steering plate , swivel nut was seized so had to spin plate to undo air line.

Tie rod was harddddd to pop off arm, cotter pin was basically part of the tie rod, no way to pull out of thread (age) then once I popped off, lol it would spin so was a pain , then after I got castle nut off, (after a cry of happiness,lol) then the rest went smooth.

I think a couple new complete radius arms are in order for spring, and some air lines while I'm at it,.
Last edited by Monk on Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Monk
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Re: Hub seal replacement

Post by Monk »

Another update ;)

I noticed a little bit of air leaking from front tires, so checked out.

Noticed driver side had small leak from hub air vent ,sooooo decided to change hub seal,

(Luckily I ordered extra one off Roy)

Basically it's like the rear BUT way more accessible for work space ,

I didn't even loosen th tie rod was a lot of movement , lol even my ctis lines came off easy.

This one went toooooo easy, lol , it didn't feel right!

Still at a smooth rate took me hour and half from start till walking back to my house.

I also greased things while in there and tremcladed all the hub A-Arm, and hub to pretty up, and topped up

Hubs,

Thanks again to Everyone's help before , made life easier, hehehe


Ps, is there supposed to be a bracket in front on my front ctis lines at hub?

For some reason my fronts don't have, and now not sure ,
Last edited by Monk on Mon May 04, 2015 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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