Can one remove just the oil pan? Lol,while looking up,the starter looks very close heck, even under a bit on couple studs,. Or can I get away with just the pan alone?
Have a little leak so figure should brake down and change gaskets,
Oil pan removal
- Monk
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
- Posts: 1232
- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:36 am
- Location: Ontario
Oil pan removal
96 HMC4
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
- Roy
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
- Posts: 1933
- Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:21 pm
- Location: Stratford,Ontario
Re: Oil pan removal
the pan should be siliconed on. it may take a little space to remove it. Only one way to find out! Good luck
99 Wagon
5.9 Cummins 12 valve mech. Stocking most parts to fix your H1
41.5-13.5 R16.5 Pitbull Rockers,
Auburn lockers front and rear
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4" side rock tubes
12100 rear cv shafts
5.9 Cummins 12 valve mech. Stocking most parts to fix your H1

41.5-13.5 R16.5 Pitbull Rockers,
Auburn lockers front and rear
Full custom underbody protection
3" body lift
4" side rock tubes
12100 rear cv shafts
519-272-1761 
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- Monk
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
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- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:36 am
- Location: Ontario
Re: Oil pan removal
Ok, she came off and there was a gasket (super hard and crap condition)
So what I did was, drain oil, unplug batteries, then put my little floor jack and a small 2x6 piece (up and down) of wood and had it touch the starter,
I undid the two bolts and lowered starter a hair, and put my large screw drive beside it and block, and it pushed to the side. Didn't need to move much.
All pan bolts came off, and shockingly the pan came off very easy, (remember the oil stick tube, so straight down till pulls)I'm also gonna put an oil temp gauge so figure now is best to drill the hole.
I cleaned all the grim on and in pan ,washed with soap and water and scraped the Grime, so now squeaky clean,
Tomorrow I'll go get a bung and drill and put her back in,. Lol I hope goes back as easy, seriously was super easy job!
Now for the sad part, lol
I inspected the lower end for cracks or anything weird,, and noticed my timing chain felt sloppy. Soooooo I'm sure that's another day errrrrrr days, heheh
So what I did was, drain oil, unplug batteries, then put my little floor jack and a small 2x6 piece (up and down) of wood and had it touch the starter,
I undid the two bolts and lowered starter a hair, and put my large screw drive beside it and block, and it pushed to the side. Didn't need to move much.
All pan bolts came off, and shockingly the pan came off very easy, (remember the oil stick tube, so straight down till pulls)I'm also gonna put an oil temp gauge so figure now is best to drill the hole.

I cleaned all the grim on and in pan ,washed with soap and water and scraped the Grime, so now squeaky clean,
Tomorrow I'll go get a bung and drill and put her back in,. Lol I hope goes back as easy, seriously was super easy job!
Now for the sad part, lol
I inspected the lower end for cracks or anything weird,, and noticed my timing chain felt sloppy. Soooooo I'm sure that's another day errrrrrr days, heheh
Last edited by Monk on Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
96 HMC4
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
- Monk
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
- Posts: 1232
- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:36 am
- Location: Ontario
Re: Oil pan removal
This is a pic of a return line I soldered in as well yesterday while under truck, AN8 fitting..... errrr for a future project. .....*wink*
I washed the pan with dish soap and water in and out (dirty job) but she looks nice now, then spray painted black on outside Of it.
I washed the pan with dish soap and water in and out (dirty job) but she looks nice now, then spray painted black on outside Of it.
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Last edited by Monk on Fri Aug 07, 2015 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
96 HMC4
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
- Monk
- CHC Trail SuperGuide
- Posts: 1232
- Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:36 am
- Location: Ontario
Re: Oil pan removal
Well, even after taking my time and cleaning, I had a small leak on back seal,didn't drip but was wet, and very front of oil pan had a leak, (maybe 2 drops after I shut off engine) lol this drove me crazy!!!
Soooo 2 days a go I took apart and tossed my gasket, and bought I think called "the right stuff" silicone,
Well, after 2 days and lots of driving I can officially say she's perfect, no wet/damp/drips, hehehe
I touched my timing chain again while under it and lol it reminded me ,I have to replace,hehe
Soooo 2 days a go I took apart and tossed my gasket, and bought I think called "the right stuff" silicone,
Well, after 2 days and lots of driving I can officially say she's perfect, no wet/damp/drips, hehehe
I touched my timing chain again while under it and lol it reminded me ,I have to replace,hehe
96 HMC4
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
Optimizer N/A
Super Swamper IROKS 39.5x13.5x 16.5
- drm
- CHC Navigator
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:07 am
Re: Oil pan removal
Just so you guys know I have always found that when final cleaning to silicone something on, use premium brake clean as it is a non-oil based cleaner and will have better adhesion to whatever you are fixing. I have even used it before fibre glassing a hole in a oil pan in the bush, but thats another story.