6.5 l Diesel engine problem, valves or bearings?

[Monk]

A hitch? That's insane."".


and the best damn idea ever,!!!!

Wow, that's way over my head, I'd be twitching in a corner, questioning life,....hehe

Seriously that's have the work battle, now it's a matter of getting back to running order....


Not sure what your doing, motor wise , but lol take all the "good" parts off for spares, starter alt etc, iP


Hehe I'm not used to seeing a mech fuel pump, at least your safe if earth gets an electric pulse , you'll b running for sure,,,

[WolfinJeepsClothing]

A hitch? That's insane."".

and the best damn idea ever,!!!!

Wow, that's way over my head, I'd be twitching in a corner, questioning life,....hehe

Seriously that's have the work battle, now it's a matter of getting back to running order....

Not sure what your doing, motor wise , but lol take all the "good" parts off for spares, starter alt etc, iP

Hehe I'm not used to seeing a mech fuel pump, at least your safe if earth gets an electric pulse , you'll b running for sure,,,

Here's a better shot of the receiver reducer, for any do it yourselfers. As it turns out the shop crane fit a 2" receiver (OD) to a 1" (ID) and once I measured out the length I needed I fastened it to the crane tube with a 3" machine screw just so it wouldn't slide around on me. It worked like a charm.


Luckily I am pretty stubborn when it come to doing stuff, there were a few times I felt like retreating into a corner and giving up. To add to the problem my driveway slopes about 10 degrees towards the truck so we had to allow for that and pull the engine uphill.

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[WolfinJeepsClothing]

So on Canada day I finally got to meet the infamous Roy and tour the shop. After a little treasure hunt I am moving on to my next phase of learning. I have only ever rebuilt two stroke dirt bike engines, so seeing someone pull apart a 6.5l v8 so effortlessly was pretty impressive. I will have to follow the manual to the letter to make sure I do it right. One thing it says is that the pushrods have a mark for the hardened side to be in the correct location, I know this is an older manual, so I am wondering if this is no longer required in the GEP engines version (one of their improvements). See attached manual page which indicated the hardened side is marked. I didn't see any differences on pushrods that came out.

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Barely have room to work in the garage, so I am hoping for good weather to let me work outdoors and get my sexy beast back on the road.

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I may just end up getting a cheap torque angle gauge at Princess Auto since head torque is tightened plus 90 degrees so I don't think I need anything fancy.

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I have seen these gauges before but I had no idea what they were used for. So I learned a lot this weekend.


I am sure I will have dozens of questions as the work continues.


Wolf

[Monk]

I swear Roy leave his box of parts by the door to torment us, you know when a child goes to Swiss chalet ?

They get to dig a toy from the chest after a meal , well Roy locks his chest,..hehehe


princess auto is like church for me, you will find your inner piece inside, heehhe

You will become the creator, (engine creator that is')


I'm curious as well with the pushrods, I've always been told get some cardboard poke holes and place pushrods in the way your find it,

Not sure how the " newer motors "are, for some reason I'd thin all would still be the same....


Yea "if you can" push to do now, warm time, lol there will be a whole new list of things to complain about come winter,

Hehe

[Monk]

I'd think still matters, this is the optimizer


Pushrods for this engine are specific in their orientation in the engine. They have a very specific difference in their hardness from end-to-end. The side with a paint stripe or copper coloring must go to the rocker arm side or the top of the engine. Failure to install the push rods correctly will result in premature engine failure without question. Valve recession for both the intake and exhaust valves is .034″ – .048″ – being outside of these specs will result in hard starting.....

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This was the page I found (aka copied )from, lots of decent info

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/06 ... izer-6500/' class="bbc_url" title="External link">http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/06 ... r-6500/</a>

[WolfinJeepsClothing]

I'd think still matters, this is the optimizer

Pushrods for this engine are specific in their orientation in the engine. They have a very specific difference in their hardness from end-to-end. The side with a paint stripe or copper coloring must go to the rocker arm side or the top of the engine. Failure to install the push rods correctly will result in premature engine failure without question. Valve recession for both the intake and exhaust valves is .034″ – .048″ – being outside of these specs will result in hard starting.....

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This was the page I found (aka copied )from, lots of decent info<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/06 ... izer-6500/' class="bbc_url" title="External link">http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/06 ... r-6500/</a>

Thanks for that info, I showed the guy at the engine shop the rods today and he pointed out the copper colouring on the ball of the one side. That is very important to know, and it makes me glad that I asked you guys. I spent another hundred bucks at Princess Auto and got an a torque angle dial, injector socket ( 30mm deep ). I got a camo ATV cover to hide the engine from the wife, and keep the dirt out when I'm not working on it.


PS the Humvee looks even better with the matching camo door I got from Roy.

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[Monk]

Lmao!!!!!!! That's a great engine disguise!!


I'd use other methods here, like leave a cleaning bucket, broom or a vacuum beside the engine,,,,, im sure she'd avoid it big time.

Kidding I say, hehe

I'm sure if she read this , I'd wake up in about two days with a brick beside my head,


Wow didn't know Roy had those, you guys must of really dug in there...

It does look great!!! Pics pics pics


Ps, I'm sure in my near future I'll be doing a head gasket replacement dance,,.,


Also use a good felporo gasket,..,,Youll also need new head bolts, as one never should reused head bolts due to stretch,...

They are a one time use TTY bolts,....there not pricy

[WolfinJeepsClothing]

Thanks Monk


I ordered the head gaskets, engine gasket kit at the Crosstown Engine Rebuilders shop and got them getting new bolts too. He recognized the 6.5l diesel from the sample gasket I brought with me, before I even told him which engine I had.


I left some sample bolts since there is all this reference to 10mm or 12mm bolts whenever you talk about the later model 6.5s.

[Monk]

Perfect, nothing wrong with samples...... It sucks to work on things and realize a thread count or bolt size was wrong,....

That is also great to hear about his knowledge , with sooooo many motors out there, I'd figure our diesels are almost forgotten animal , heehhe


Plus check out this you tube video,, it's basically the bolt sequence for the heads


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xTtxTNXHFF0

[WolfinJeepsClothing]

So here we are half way through the summer and I am still working on my engine. I had a setback with the replacement engine I bought so I am back to getting my #5 cylinder sleeved in my original engine. I retrieved the piston last week and stripped down to a short block minus the heads. Now I need to see if this assembly will fit in the back of my Jeep so I can get it to the engine rebuilder.

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this is what was left of the piston sitting on the block.

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looking down the bore of number five

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Inside, outside, upside down....