Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

The Original and the First Street Model.. let's chat
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

I bought my hmc4 back in 2000. The first lift pump lasted 70k miles. Since then i have gone through 4 in half as many miles. I put it down to cheap manufacturing with cheap materials. Having recently completed the FTB mod the search has been on now for a better HO pump for the truck.

I chose the Raptor RP150. I actually wanted the RP100 being better suited for what i was doing but i found a good deal on the 150 and could not pass it up. I have read a lot of the install threads and it seemed the Raptor although expensive seemed to have less failures than other pumps. I was just about to order the Walboro FRB5 and changed my mind because of a few threads here on it shortcomings and failures in some cases. Hopefully the Raptor lives up to its price and the hype.

Then i got to thinking about our spikey 12v battery power supply and i realized you can't blame everything on the pump. I came to the conclusion that the same issue killing PMDs was killing pumps as well. Battery voltages can be descibed as spikey at best with wild fluxuations. Motors don't like it and niether do logic circuits. How can i install the expensive Raptor knowing this and the potential risks??

Answer I can't so a solution must be found and the answer is.,, Pulse Width Modulation!

Pulse width modulation will do several things. It will prolong the life of a DC motor by minimizing heat and spike stress with higher frequency switching and regulation. Also it uses less power than a direct connection and most importantly the load can be accurately controlled with a programmable digital gauge and a single potentiometer.

The Raptor was clearly overkill and even with the Raptors internal pressure regulation 8-10 psi was the average minimum you can get. Some would say its still too high. What i decided to do was set the pump pressure to 16 psi which is the maximun DS4 pump pressure tolerated and use the PWM to dial down the speed of the motor to control pressure in a precise way from in the cab on the fly.

So with all that in mind!!! I built a box!!


I will explain the box a little better.

The red and green wires out the top go to the raptor pump.

There is a 3 wire mini connector you cant see that comes out the top for the control knob input from the cab.

In the bottom is the stock pump connector that is fed from the stock plug on the truck. The red wire is the battery feed wire and it is fused at 15 amps inside the box.

On the right side bottom is a neg and pos buss connection. The Black is ground. This wire must be connected for the priming feature or negatively switched pumps to operate properly.

The pos contact is hot when the vehicle is off unles the logic switch is in the center position in which case the contact is hot when the vehicle is running. I have a plan for this connection.

The 3 way switch when in the center position direct the flow through the PWM. If something should happen to the PWM the switch can be put to the right to bypass the PWM and DIRECT INPUT to the pump motor.

With the vehicle off the switch an be turned to the left to run the pump for priming the fuel system from under the hood.

The two green leds on the side are power indicators for the trigger side and batt+ side of the switch and will be helpful for quick diagnostics of the fuel system if any,,, ever

A few pics of the build up including the isolation bracket mount for the pump and a home made fuel fitting by recycling an old pump for its female fittings an re tapping them for 3/8 npt
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

OK I consider the pump mod done. At least the Raptor part. It was very cool using the prime feature i built into the box. Made it very easy. The Raptor was set to 30 psi from the factory so i turned it all the way down to about 8 psi for the test run.
I had some minor issues with the install.
The return line bends in behind the pump and touches it. I managed to wedge a piece off rubber behind the grommet to move it back about a quarter inch until it cleared.
I snapped the mount off the PWM box by accident pulling on it too hard before the epoxy had a chance to cure so a few cable straps are holding it in place right now.
When i get some money i am going to get some really nice fitted lines made up instead of the push to connect stuff i used.
I am totaly pleased with my homemade fitting that attaches to the stock tube nut. No leaks and easy to install and only cost 2 bucks!!

The run test. Pump is very quiet and you can barely hear it. The isolation mount seems to do the job.
I put about 30 miles on the truck as a run test to see what is going on. 15 in the city at first doing light stuff and then picking it up slowly as i manouvered out of town. Then 15 miles back on the freeway opened up.
No issues at all. No change in performance untill about 70mph. Now when you put the foot down at 70 the truck picks up nice to about 90 for passing easily. No power loss on grades at all that i could notice.
Tomorrow it will get the old 700 mile test to Ottawa and back and i will see if i can get a few numbers.
Next on the list is the pressure monitor gauge and sender by Auber!!
A few pics as always.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

Just around 1000 miles on the new fuel setup. I am seeing some fuel economy number gains at around .5 mpg. Truck definatly has a top end now and can pass.
I put some new washer lines in as well and made use of some Chelic fittings to clean it up.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

2000 miles on this setup now. Did the last trip at 4psi instead of 6psi and got better mileage and lower temps.
Lots of expieriementing to do to find the best performasnce /economy settings.
So far an excellent mod and the truck runs very well.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
whitehumh2
CHC Trail SuperGuide
Posts: 4529
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 11:47 pm
Location: Lachine, Quebec

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by whitehumh2 »

You sure do good work! Very nice install!
<p class="bbc_center">1 - There is a time for everything,

and a season for every activity under the heavens:

3b - a time to tear down and a time to build,

5 - a time to scatter stones and a time to gather them,

Ecclesiastes 3:1,3b&5a
User avatar
Sub
CHC Trail SuperGuide
Posts: 1142
Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2011 10:52 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by Sub »

I think my lift pump just failed. I don't hear a lovely rorring sound on ignition stage or during run...Kevin let me know if you can be any help!
-04 HUMMER H1 HMCO Optimizer 6.5 Black
-94 HUMMER XLC2 6.5L N/A 10K Miles ONLY
-95 HUMMER H1 AMBL/CONVERSION WAGON
-85 M998 6.2L X DOORS 32K Miles
-03 HUMMER H1 White wagon/28" Pirelli's
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

Just coming upto 4k miles on the PWM controlled Raptor along with the FTB modification. I have increased the pressure overall for winter to about 9psi. Seems to work very well at that pressure as opposed to summer pressure of 4 psi.
I did have an issue with the fuel filter housing freezing up after a long haul in the cold and then sitting for 2 days. This has prompted me to modify the existing fuel heater to work along with the block heater while sitting. This will keep the fuel well above the gel point and involes a 150watt LED transformer and a DPDT relay to be spliced into the block heater curcuit. This way when you plug in the block heater the fuel filter heater element will keep the fuel warm as well. Once the blck heater is unplugged the relay switches the wiring back to the stock confiruation.
In my case i had a fair amount of water that had accumulated in the bottom of the filter bowl which froze after shutting down the truck. It was about -20 in Ottawa over xmas. Even though my water in fuel alarm was not activated there was enough water to freeze the whole bottom of the filter solid and prevent the pump from pushing fuel through. A hair dryer came to the rescue.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

Well spring is here and im out of the cage. Its been a year and 4k since part one of this fuel mod business started. Part two of this is now beginning,, pehaps a little later than i had planned!!
I await parts that i ordered a few days ago.
Coming in the mail are
Two, Auber SYL 1813 digital programable gauges
<a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... s_id=19</a>
One, 2.5 bar fuel pressure sensor
<a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... _id=311</a>
One, EGT probe
<a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... s_id=69</a>

The two gauges will get mounted in my overhead console. One for fuel pressure and one for EGTs. The fuel pressure will be adjustable from a single control knob.
A total of 9 wires need to run from the overhead console where the gauges are located to under the hood. I am going to go through the engine cover using a 9 pin bulhead connector similar to a 9 pin vga. This way it can be unplugged on both sides for removal on engine cover for servicing etc.
3 of the wires run from a potentiometer in the overhead console to the PWM fuel pump controller for the purpose of adjusting the fuel pressure. Presently the control is under the hood for all the good it does there.
3 more wires connect from one gauge to the fuel pressure sensor which will be mounted just about the injection pump.
The final 3 wires run from the second gauge to the EGT probe which is going to be installed in the tail of the turbo. The final temp reading will be compenasted for changes in temp between the valve output and the tail which could be as much as 400f difference. This figure is not known or confirmed yet!!
I will post more when i get a couple of pics.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

This is a pic showing where the gauges and the control knob will go. The existing board containing the 6 way video switch and the 6 channel counter measures selector will be removed as the functions therein have been replace with usb control. The alarm indicator will stay.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
User avatar
GreenMeanie
CHC Pilot
Posts: 426
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 3:28 am

Re: Raptor Fuel Pump Intall Part One

Post by GreenMeanie »

Parts are at Canada Customs!! I hate waiting fo USPS!!
In the meantime i have opened the access points for the wiring in the truck. The center window trim needs to be cut down 2 inches. When i first made the custom trim panel it was too tight making it so i can't remove it without taking the dash out. So anyway i purposely broke the piece to get it out and then cut it down and reglued all the vinyl back on. Fits good now and is easy to remove for the next time i need to alter the wiring inside the center window trim.
I need to run 9 extra wires through the bulkhead into the engine area. Not sure what wire i am using yet. I have a few options laying around the best being AC Delco digital purple of which i have about 1000 feet of the stuff around from my recording studio instalation. Technicaly i could get away with 7 wires but i want the individual grounds isolated from each other. I plan to drill a small hole in the engine cover and simply run the wires straight to the sensors with no plugs in between.Makes it more difficult to dis assemble but its a nightmare of wiring now so whats a little more LOL The center windshield area is getting pretty congested with all the wiring i have installed . I have tried to keep it all neat!!
Ready for some parts now so i anxiously wait!!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by GreenMeanie on Sun May 04, 2014 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Early 1997 HMC4, 1 of 35, Original Block H296, 110,000 miles and no cracks yet, G10 green
Custom made Brush Gaurd, Roof Rack, Overhead Console and Sound System.
Post Reply