Automatic Transmissions - Who has rebuilt there trans?

[nitrous]

I have recently came into the need for a new transmission.
 
Wondering if anyone on here has rebuilt one for the H2 or H1 that was a 4L80E?
 
Failure on mine was a little complicated, stock 4L80e probably would have held up fine... But now that it's apart looking to beef it up so I'm ready for future mods.
 
I'm also thinking that the 4L80e was probably a little under spec for the weight of the truck, 40 inch tires, and the Cummins 12V that now sits between me and my passenger.
 
Any info anyone can share as far as what they did or didn't do when faced with the unpleasant need to rebuild their transmission would be great.
 

[whitehumh2]

I have rebuilt a couple of 4L65-E and 4L80-E transmissions and built them too last!
 
I haven't done one in quite sometime and now the kits are even better!
 
I would highly encourage you to get a master rebuild kit from Hughes Performance. They use red alto and kevlar clutches that can live even with high heat and little to no oïl! This is the smae components that are in the transmission on Monster trucks like Grave Digger and Maximum Destruction!
 
I would also suggest and highly encourage you to change your torque converter to on that will better match your engine torque curve and have a better lock -up. This will help driveability and reduce heat and increase fuel economy!
 
Check out the link:
 
<a href="http://www.hughesperformance.com/index. ... emid=41</a>

[Autumn Walker]

[quote="Polar Bear"]
I have rebuilt a couple of 4L65-E and 4L80-E transmissions and built them too last!
[/quote]
 
Of the two transmissions, which one tends to be stronger?
 
Can you put a 4L80-E into a 2003 - 2007 H2 or will it not know what to do with the extra gears?

[whitehumh2]

The 4L80-E is by far the stronger of the two however it has a crappy first gear ratio compared to the 4L65-E, 2.48:1 vs. 3.06:1 which would affect driveability and low range crawling. The 4L65-E also has a better overdrive, 0.69:1 vs the 0.75:1 of the 4L80-E.
 
Now while the 4L80-E is stronger you can build a 4L65-E to exceed the strength and greatly increase the durability.
 
The best transmissions would be to get a 6L90-E or a Allison 6spd, those are some serious transmissions that would need a bit of work to get them to fit and function but well worth the time!

[nitrous]

Yes I would definitely like to do a trans swap to a 6sp Allison, maybe at some point down the road when those transmissions are a little more affordable and someone makes a controller for it.
 
I had no forward and no reverse in any gear, and it went from good to bad in a couple blocks of regular under 60 kmph driving. No real problems previous. Took the trans to a shop and had them strip it down and looked over the parts with the owner, one of the lugs was broken off the inside of the case but everything else looked good and there was no reason why it shouldn't have still been working relatively OK. Had the billet torque converter sent away to be rebuilt and when they cut it open they found out it wasn't really built as well as it should have been for my application and it was totally blown. So that was my problem. The frictions in the trans all looked really good but there was a little interference I'm thinking between the snub nose of the starter and the bell housing that might have been causing a small miss alignment that showed on the bushings in the trans. So I'll take care of that small issue when I install the new one. One of the H1 owners in Calgary has a transmission that he is no longer using with low miles on it and I'm going to get that one off him tomorrow. After looking at the internals of my trans I didn't see a need right now for anything crazy, I'll wait for that till I turn up the boost or put bigger tires on or something. In which case on of those other transmissions might be in the cards at that time.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. The 4L80E by the way can be built to handle some very high torque figures, in the range of 1200 ft/lb plus. And that cost isn't too bad, probably looking at 4800 for everything built and a fully built billet torque converter. To put the other transmissions in the H1 you would be looking at a lot more I think when you look at controllers ($1000) adapter plates ($1000) the cost of the transmission which you would probably take a chance on being used ($2500) and then you have the issues with transfer cases, fabrication, drive shafts, etc.
 
Too big of a project for September when my truck won't fit in my garage. Maybe if I had a garage with a heated floor I could make it a winter project one year.