Canadian Hummer Club Forums

I'm no expert, but that isn't a piston and I think your cylinder might not be round. 

While you have it exposed Wolf, get some photos of the casting marks and numbers from inside the valley. Its the best way to determine the engine vintage.
I would like to see them.
Thanks,
Derek

Tanky, what you are seeing there is in the bottom of the bore. This is a better shot of the damaged areas where the wrist pin gouged the cylinder walls. I already spoke to the motor shop and putting a sleeve in shouldn't be a problem. I'll find out for sure tomorrow when I drop it off. For now I can tell people that I have a 6.5 litre diesel in my Jeep.

Derek, I guess the lighting was no good for reading the casting marks in the previous post. But I found a GEP sticker on it.

HA! Cool. A jeep with a 6.5 TD in it. 
 
OK glad you got the right info on the mill Wolf. 
 
 
I picked this up today.... Useless for hauling motors though.  
 

I'm so surprised such a low km motor blew!!!

And lol take that fly wheel off, hehe from what I understand a sleeve isn't to big of a deal.... Sucks still, just all the headaches....



Ddgermann , sweet ride, wow you'll make batman jealous, seriously love it!!!

No Chrome, all business ,

So, I picked up the rebuilt motor yesterday and the guy in the shop said by what he's seen it looks to him like it hydrolocked but the block and crank are in great shape (now with the new sleeve). He wants to look at the heads to see if they are cracked. Visually there is nothing I have seen except possibly this trace on the gasket which lines up with the number seven cylinder (I think I didn't mark the gaskets when I took them off).

A- is there a way to check the head for cracks (hidden in the passages)

B- does this gasket look like it could have failed and let coolant into cylinder seven.


Rebuilt block

Bank one head gasket signs of tracking of coolant

Bank two head gasket no tracking of coolant

Since you have the bottom done, might as well get the heads checked. And maybe ground. Magnafluxing is the best way to check for cracks.
The steel ring seals the cylinder off from the coolant. Machine shop can see if head is flat and correct it.

Unfortunately head cracks can be hard to "see"

It won't take them long, and shouldn't be to much to check heads, lol even when I do my gaskets I'll send my head somewhere to just look over....

Wow eh, you can see the finish coming ahead,.,,take your time when re-installing the heads,, I'm sure you know, you don't want to do this again,

Head Gaskets are to common of a problem, with or motors and 6.2s.

Yup Agree with the guys Wolf. Hard to find head cracks without Magnaflux. If he suspects hydrolock best to get them all checked. Re-manned heads or yours machined flat as the case may be. Cheap insurance.
Pretty good mechanic you have. Some would not insist on checking the heads and just sit and wait rubbing their hands together. $$$
 
Gotta give an attaboy to this guy. 
 
Keep us posted Wolf. Your thread has been very interesting and we are all pulling for you to get your beast back on the trail.

So, with the help of the family I got the engine into the garage and started putting it together. As you advised I will bring the heads to the shop tomorrow and get them inspected. I have to go there anyhow, since somebody forgot one of the frost plugs. Here are a few close-ups of the casting for your viewing pleasure. Since I mangled the pan so much getting it off the first time I ended up using the gasket and permatex to be sure it seals.


Casting marks 506

Sleeved cylinder 5

One of these things is not like the others...

Tonight's progress...